The Athos Peninsula. Much of Greece is interesting because of its past. The early democracies. The first organised European cities. Philosophers whose work we read still today. The semi-autonomous Orthodox state of Athos is fascinating, mysterious, alien, right now. The 335 square kilometre state is a time warp, and vast nature reserve. It’s home to […]
Kathisma, then east.
Turner skies over Kathisma. Three days drift aimlessly by. Early swims and late swims. Unheated showers at a bar where the water is still running. The invigorating kick of cold water, salty, then fresh. Polly wanders free, ambling along to see our German neighbours, but not brave enough to visit the French guy a bit […]
Lefkada. Was it just a dream?
Memory versus the truth. When I spontaneously call to mind last winter in Greece I create nirvana. Winter swims, lamb chops, long views, and sun, sun, sun. I remember epic solo walks where I’d get higher and higher with the vista stretching ever further, including another island, including another stunning bay. If I interrogate that […]
A Farewell to Italy. Greece, here we come.
The exhausting delight of the new. Some people resist change. I feel that my spirit would wither without it. Seeking out the new, the different, it stimulates every day. Yet daily stimulation is exhausting. The thought of returning to Lefkada next week delights us both. It’s in part because we know we love it there, […]
Italy. A magnificent snapshot.
The South Tyrol question. In a bizarre twist of logic my school’s O level curriculum allowed me to study history, or Latin, but not both. I did Latin (badly) and missed out on the subject that has fascinated me ever since. Were that not the case I may not have asked my Tyrolian question at […]
Industry, tarmac, lakes and hills.
Volklinger Hütte. Do the words UNESCO World Heritage site conjure up a vision of a pile of old stones? P If it does for you then perhaps this is worth a try. The Volklinger Hütte is the most angry, scratchy, ugly and impressive example of cultural heritage you’re ever likely to come across. It has […]